Buda + Pest Finale

Essência for lunch, Mazel Tov for afternoon delights, Boutiq for a pregame cocktail, Gundel for dinner. And all the fun in between, on each side of the city.

Welcome back to the second installment of Budapest travels. I’m a wife and mom who ventures with her best girlfriends to Europe once a year. I’m a photo enthusiast, lover of selfies, seeker of fine dining and fun bars, sharer of good looking food and delicious drinks and travel things.

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Let’s get right into it then!

We are back and forth on this third and final day between the Pest Side and the Buda Side. That’s just what’s happening based on when we could get certain tickets, what we still wanted to see, and where meal reservations were!

To visit the crown jewel of Budapest: The Hungarian National Assembly (Pest Side) you do need a ticketed time slot booked in advance. When we were planning it often looked sold out or presented with very few time slots available.

Our mindset was casual either way (when you don’t know what you’re missing and not stressing, right?) but if architecture and art history interests you in the slightest, (and you came all this way…) you would be wise to keep revisiting the ticket host site. It seems that the government releases them at various times, maybe because large groups such as youth field trips are coordinating in tandem.

Additional catch, you book a tour based on audio guide language — and we hadn’t found anything in English. The day before as we sipped drinks at Szimpla Kert and Tricia refreshed the screen, a Spanish Tour with 4 slots opened up at 10:30 am the next day. We had flexibility to add this in. Booked!

Everyone takes the same 45 minute guided walking tour along a designated visitors route. And while I love an audio guide, forgoing that piece was worth it just to be here marveling.

In awe of the artwork and the ceiling frescoes, the beauty and the precision. The wallpaper and the moldings and the details. The ornate carvings and the stained glass windows.

I honestly don’t know if I’ve been inside any building as rich and luxurious as this. Room after room is a treasure trove.

Whatever the governments rhyme, reason or algorithm for releasing tickets, our persistence paid off. A trip inside the House of Parliament is A++.

Another spot that warrants a visit inside is The Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle, commonly referred to as Mattias Church located on sprawling Holy Trinity Plaza on the Buda Side.

I mentioned this last week but to re-iterate: you can gain entry in real time to Mattias Church and Halászbástya (Fisherman’s Bastion) which is a scenic turreted walk about fronted by the church. These are separate tickets sold at the same window located right there in the plaza.

Mattias is giving Gothic Revival with a colorful, harmonious network of art and paintings.

Also in the Castle District we witnessed the dramatic and well choreographed Changing of The Guards in front of the Hungarian Presidential Palace.

Essência is a Portuguese-Hungarian Restaurant in the Lipótváros neighborhood, located in District V on the Pest side.

Michelin star dining is brought to you by husband-wife duo Tiago & Éva, he is Portuguese, she is Hungarian. Having traveled to Portugal last September, and with an understanding of their cuisine, it was exciting to see how the menu intersected the two food and wine cultures!

At lunch time the space is calm, sunlit, and the open kitchen ready to serve. After going all out the night before at Babel, we opted for a la carte two courses and glasses of wine at our discretion. Still, the luxury experience persists.

Following the amuse bouche was a presentation of an exclusive chefs only Portuguese olive oil. Bright green, fresh, and fruity with a thick slice of homemade bread and a Grál Pince, Pelzberg Kékfrankos, (a Hungarian Red wine) at a table with my girlfriends on the height of our trip, this is just the moment I want to relish. Next Thursday we’ll be making school lunches and shuttling kids but today…pamper me at lunch!

My first course was the Duck liver with rhubarb and elderflower. Erin had the Octopus with leeks and squid ink.

And for Corinne and Tricia the Cucumber soup with horseradish and trout roe.

My main course was Cod prepared in the traditional Portuguese Bacalhau with watercress and fermented potato. The sommelier steered me away from the Vinho Verde I ordered (not the right pairing!) and to a Casa da Passarella Descoberta from the Dão wine region of Portugal.

Petit Fours were soft, sugary dulce de leche bites and the famous Portuguese Pastel de Nata. So much swoon.

After lunch, step outside to be greeted once again by the grand and bustling streets of District V. Perhaps for some shopping or to peruse the local street vendor markets (tourist geared). Check out St. Stephens Basilica if you haven’t already (we had) and walk down towards Dohany Street Synagogue (option to tour inside, we did not) as you make your way into District VII for afternoon drinks. It is Ruin Bar time, yet again!

Outside, the walls are crumbling. Inside, Mazel Tov is an airy courtyard like space with lush greens cascading over exposed brick and soaring tree branches presiding over happy patrons.

Plates of Mediterranean x Middle-Eastern cuisine looked very good. Mazel Tov is perhaps an option to brunch or lunch. (Think: Shakshuka. Falafel. Hummus platters.)

Cute lil age 40 tattoos and listening to our body’s when they tell us, take a break from alcoholic beverages for a hot second k?

Drinks to cure what ails you: long, thin ribbons of cucumber infusing sparkling water. Chinese Royal Gunpowder Green Tea. And a Ginger shot. This trio came to my rescue. A Bolt came to whisk us back to the hotel for a much needed rest and shower. Last night in Buda, train to Vienna in the morning!

Boutiq’Bar was a fun pregame with great bartenders. Cocktail aficionados take note. They do appreciate reservations, ours was at 7 pm. I am drinking a Gypsy Water made with Cachaca, lime, sugar, basil and pepper.

Gundel is a 130-year-old Hungarian Institution — “Dine where the Queen did!”

If you have not experienced a traditional Goulash Soup, this is the time and place! Gundel’s rich soup is made with beef cheek and simmered for three hours. The silky broth is poured tableside over root vegetables and homemade noodles.

My entrée was a Bakonyi Filet of Beef with Cottage Cheese Pasta. Bakonyi style means sautéed mushrooms in a pepper sauce with a sour cream mousse. The cottage cheese pasta is homemade, and the casserole itself has been fried in a pan of mangalica bacon fat.

I’ve done it again. That is, I have matched myself to the décor. Is that the Gundel menu or my FARM Rio Banana Foliage bodysuit? Right down to the blue palm leaves…

Our final Budapest party trick was a full circle moment. White Raven Skybar & Lounge is nestled atop the Hilton. We spontaneously kicked off our first night with a drink here, and ended our last night. We had reservations none of the time and (both times) were seated at a back table near the wine fridge.

White Raven has views from Buda looking over to Pest — if you’re not staying at the Hilton consider making a reservation to view the city lights on parade.

We enjoyed frothy and sweet espresso martinis in addition to signature collection cocktails. Try the Ajouré — a clementine-rose cordial with Hungarian sparkling wine and Southern Strength Gin or the Fata Morgana blending Dassai junmai daiginjo sake with Manchina Sakuro vermouth, vanilla and lychee juice.

Egészségére! (C H E E R S)

and Köszönöm (T H A N K Y O U), Budapest!

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handy restaurant + bar recap:

Lunch: Cookie Beacon | Essência | Mazel Tov | Szaytor Bar

Dinner: Stand 25 Bistro | Babel | Gundel | Borkonyha^

Skybar Drinks: High Note | The Duchess | White Raven

Cocktail Bars: Hotsy Totsy | Boutiq’Bar | Black Swan^

Ruin Bars: Szimpla Kert | Mazel Tov | (there are tons more)

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handy sites recap:

Book tickets in advance: Hungarian Parliament | Rudas Thermal Bath | Gellért Thermal Bath^

Purchase tickets on a whim: Buda Hill Funicular | Mattias Church | Fisherman’s Bastion | Hungarian National Gallery^ | Buda Castle History Museum^ | St. Stephens Basilica

Walk on by / meander around: Heroes Square | City Park | Hungarian State Opera House | Dohany Street Synagogue | Shoes on the Danube | Vaci Street | Buda Castle Changing of the Guards | Holy Trinity Statue | Liberty Bridge | Erzsébet Bridge | Széchenyi Chain Bridge.

^ spots we did not personally visit but researched, that felt worthy of consideration.

Thank you, as always, for reading. Wishing you an excellent rest of your week!