Guest Post: A Dreamy Family Trip To Portugal
In conversation with my sister on Lisbon, Lagos, and traveling with a toddler and an infant.
I hope you all had a Happy 4th of July. We’re going to jump right in!
Kristen: How was it traveling to Europe with a 3.5 year old and 10 month old? Leah: Amazing! Seriously. The kids did so great, we were really impressed. We had direct flights and no delays which helped things feel smooth. I also think it's all about you and your partners mindset, and you have to be on the same page. A pet peeve of mine is when people say "there are no vacations with kids, it's just parenting in a different location" I completely disagree!
K: Right?! I am very much in alignment with you there. Also, a friend was telling me International flights take precedence (you are less likely to be delayed when traveling internationally versus in the US). This has always been my experience.
K: Lessons learned? Tips you’d like to share? L: My personal lesson learned is that I completely overpacked carry-on items for the overnight flight there — but it's just what I had to do to feel prepared. You actually gave me really good tips! The first 3 are from you.
1. Try to avoid connecting internationally, or maybe that was from Bob.
2. Not to be intimidated by an 11 pm departure flight.
3. In regards to time change — Letting the kids adjust naturally and not forcing sleep or bedtime.
It seamlessly worked out to go to bed later, wake up later. Day by day it incrementally shifted earlier and by the last morning the kids were up by 7:30 am.
K: #1 was definitely Bob. He booked the less expensive flights with a tight connection when we went! We will see if he goes that route next time.
Leah: For my own tips —
1. Returning to the US if you are a US passport holder, have the Mobile Passport Control App and fill it out just prior to landing. No line, breeze right through.
2. Consider a boppy for your infant on an overnight flight if not purchasing a seat. It was comfortable for the both of us. I ate my 1 am meal on the plane with a glass of wine over her and she didn't even stir.
K: I like your tips! The boppy is a godsend to feeding Mom’s so if you can save on the seat and get a goodnights rest, worth it!! You let them run around in the Terminal E Sensory room beforehand, which I thought was smart. And the ErgoBaby Omni 360 Carrier is a must for infant travel.
You hit the Algarve Coast first. Tell us about where you stayed in Lagos. In an Airbnb right above Praia de Dona Ana (copying your itinerary!) Crowd source from people you trust, who have great taste and have traveled with their children! If booking Airbnb, use your hosts for recommendations. Our hosts had fabulous lists on things to do and restaurants. This really helped with planning as I found myself having a lot less time on my hands to plan as compared to previous trips BC (before children).
L: We always like Airbnb's with a view and this one did not disappoint. The location was great, especially with children. One parent could be home with the baby for a nap, relaxing or reading on loungers in the sun with stunning views. The other parent could be out exploring the beach or walking down to the pool.
K: Those points are key. This is a relatively easy jaunt for families looking for an affordable European vacation. When Bob first spotted Iberlagos on Airbnb —we were intrigued! This is a nice scenario if you aren’t seeking an all-inclusive resort. If you want to explore and mingle and eat/shop locally.
Best dish you ate in Lagos? Anything with 🐙 and fresh 🐟.
Restaurants you’d like to recommend? Taninos Wine & Kitchen in old town Lagos. Authentic Portuguese dishes, tapas style. So good! O Jardim in Lisbon. Cool atmosphere, fun vibes, awesome food. Kid friendly (I mean, they all are really) — check out the fun drink they made Lilah.
K: My sweet lil niece! She’s drinking out of a beaker!! Love this. A Campari Spritz, but make it toddler.
You grew up on Cape Cod, and have been to a lot of beach destinations like the Caribbean (USVI/BVI), the Tuscan Coast in Italy and the Greek Islands (Crete/Santorini). How did the Algarve experience compare? Oh man. It almost feels like comparing apples to oranges. A part of me will always be partial to that sparkling, warm aquamarine water you experience in the BVI.
With the combination of this trip being early season, (June 10 - 19) and my first with two kids, it didn't particularly feel like a "beach vacation". The beach felt more like a time to explore, play, and take a quick dip. (The water was chilly!) While the water didn't feel that special in Lagos, the scenery was. The dramatic backdrop of the cliffs are undeniably stunning.
K: That makes sense. It is the Atlantic Ocean, after all. The water being cold in June is a good thing.
Tell us about where you stayed in Lisbon? An Airbnb in Principe Real neighborhood. Looking at a map of Lisbon figuring out what neighborhood to stay in made my head spin! We could not have been happier with our location. Quiet but lively at the same time. Around the corner from us was a park surrounded by five restaurants, all with outdoor dining. Charming. Very walkable to other parts of the city too, and lots to explore right in the neighborhood.
K: I loved hanging out in this neighborhood. I’d probably stay there if I ever go back to Lisbon!
Favorite meals in Lisbon? All the food we ate was delicious, not a bad meal to be had. The meals that stick out were more based on circumstance! Our impromptu lunch at Magnolia Wine Bar while the baby slept and the toddler watched videos in the bottom of the stroller. The burrata with pistachios was a favorite dish.
After visiting Castelo de São Jorge and walking search of lunch it would have been easy to duck into a touristy restaurant. I pulled up the email from our Airbnb host where he had restaurants laid out by neighborhood. In the Castle District he recommended Chapitô a Mesa. The restaurant was authentic with stunning views, and truly felt like a hidden gem as we walked through a gift shop, down stairs, then up a spiral staircase to get to our table. The clams were *chefs kiss*.
Leah: I had a conversation with someone the other day who mentioned they struggled to find good food in Lisbon. My jaw just about hit the floor! They had to be going to only super touristy destinations.
K: Those poor folks. Nice job finding the local spots and hidden gems. All of this food looks outstanding.
Did you do any shopping? Favorite purchase? Yes! Principe Real in Lisbon is known for local shops. EmbaiXada is an amazing collective of stores. I purchased a pair of Hirundo leather sneakers — they are hand made in Portugal with materials sourced locally. I walked so many miles in them through the city wearing a baby! I can attest that they are comfortable and awesome.
K: Someone in a Substack Chat was crowdsourcing comfy sneaks (didn’t want the typical Veja or Sambas). Hirundo’s feel fresh, love this find.
What did you love about city culture? How clean it is, how friendly people are, how family focused it is. I loved the stands in every park where you can purchase an espresso, a draft Super Bock, a cocktail or bottle of wine and drink it in the park!
The Portuguese are doing it right. There’s a focus on community, accessibility, and leisure. Here’s my chubby little niece Sage enjoying a swing!
What surprised you most about traveling with your kids? How good they did! My husband and I said it to each other so many times. It was really incredible to experience travel through my 3 year old’s eyes. Day one, fresh off the plane and a 3 hour drive later she couldn't WAIT to explore the beach.
K: Raising little explorers! That feeling when your kids surprise and delight you, and suddenly there’s a connection (to each other, to a place) on a new level. Nothing better.
Thank you Leah, for sharing your travel insights, gorgeous photos, and highlights of Lagos & Lisbon with On The Map. I love inspiring international family travel, and you have so beautifully embraced just that!
Have you recently traveled somewhere inspiring and would like to share your experience? Shoot me a message, I’d love to feature you! (Open to it all: solo travel, group trips, couples getaways, interview style or a simple guest post!)
Awesome interview!
Love the practical advice Leah shared here! Makes traveling with kids seem less scary, ha!