e a r t h @ Hidden Pond

Kennebunkport Maine's finest

It prevailed as pungent with a rustic sweetness. Friendly in a subtle way. It whispered Tito’s vodka, shouted pickles plus red onion bread + butter brine, and spoke of Thai chili. It was a P I C K L E D T I N I from Earth at Hidden Pond, a retreat tucked quietly away in Kennebunkport, Maine. From a page full of cocktails, this is the one that defines let’s take risks and have fun at age 40.

Brought to you by the person who knows I’d much prefer a weekend away over a bash where all the attention is on me. This was a milestone age to turn, with a relationship mileage checkpoint coinciding — our first time away from two kids, and for two nights!! My Mom insisted, like a saint, since she knows what it takes.

Time away serves up an honest call to mind how much you actually like each other outside the daily churn, the life you worked to build, the one you work resolutely at everyday. It is well beyond clichés of having a fancy dinner uninterrupted and still talking about your kids. It is at the core admiration, and getting to do so in a space that does not involve buckling complaint laden wriggly bodies into car seats as you join a conference call, lean in for a kiss goodbye, and back out of the garage all at once.

It is a cringe living laughing and loving wooden sign above the mantle, yes we were laughing (mostly at each other) all weekend in a way that made me feel lighter. (No, we don’t have that sign in our home. We do however have a pillow that says “family is forever”. It came with our discount furniture couch and is my favorite piece of décor.)

It can be about remembering the way, too.

One where you settled comfortably into a relationship, but didn’t hurry the steps, (even though one of you wanted to). You were carefree but only in retrospect, because you were already responsible, hardworking adults when you met. Here’s to marriage and not being rushy or cheesy about it, but being really happy you are in it, and feeling cared for with a fancy dinner reservation (make that two!) and a thoughtfully chosen Lark Hotel.

Speaking of carefree,

at Earth you get the most carefree version of a tasting menu I’ve encountered and by that I mean, they offer a choice from 3, 4 or 5 courses where you and your dining companions do not have to choose the same number! (Is this astonishing to anyone else?) So while Bob chose 5 and I chose 4, we calculated this in tandem based on the dishes we really wanted.

An example our waiter presented: You can omit dessert and still choose any number — from any course section — or decide to use one persons course to share a dessert. We each wanted one but I still like this idea.

Any way you want to pull together the tasting menu, they are game, and you will still get each dish in concerto fashion, coursed and paced with precision.

I was smitten with this candid yet structured approach.

F I R S T

tuna sashimi ▪️ black garlic ▪️ soy ▪️ avocado ▪️ togarashi

poached oysters ▪️ Siberian caviar ▪️ champagne emulsion ▪️ salsify ▪️ blood orange hollandaise

beef tartare ▪️ Boursin cheese ▪️ garlic aioli ▪️ parmesan cracker ▪️ everything bagel seasoning

the first course is where we added our “extra” dish. The champagne x blood orange hollandaise poached oysters needed to happen, so glad they did, and the tartare was too innovative to pass up. The detail with that everything bagel seasoning though, oh and the boursin cheese! Then an always pleasing tuna sashimi lent a soothing, artistic presentation. I relished every single bite of these firsts!

S E C O N D

seared scallop ▪️ sunchoke puree ▪️ passionfruit beurre blanc ▪️ roasted cashews ▪️ caviar

the menu feels generous with caviar! the dish came with two scallops and who knew they would welcome the brightness of a passionfruit butter plus the crunch of a cashew!

cavatelli ▪️ short rib ▪️ toasted breadcrumbs ▪️ caramelized onions ▪️ kale ▪️ pecorino romano

what i remember is how delicate the tiny coils of cavatelli, the laces of short rib, and how toasty warm this dish was. true understated elegance and comfort.

M A I N

seafood stew ▪️ scallop ▪️ shrimp ▪️ lobster ▪️ rice noodles ▪️ thai seafood broth

duck ▪️ brussels ▪️ chestnuts ▪️ parsnip puree ▪️ turnips ▪️ orange gastrique

After the courses that preceded, the seafood stew reigned in approach. With bellies getting full, the dish was both manageable and heaven sent — a bevy of Maine seafoods and clear rice noodles in a utopian broth.

On our fifteen minute drive over from Nathaniel Lord Mansion we barely saw a car on the road. We arrived to a free valet and entered a glowy red space full of patrons, potted evergreens, and chopped tree trunk walls.

On a calm February night all the quiet streets seemed to lead everyone in town to 354 Goose Rocks Road.

D E S S E R T

Doughnuts ▪️ sassafras and sarsaparilla glaze ▪️ vanilla ice cream

Flourless Chocolate Cake ▪️ espresso custard ▪️ feuilletine crisp ▪️ hazelnut ice cream

Apple Pudding ▪️ apple cake ▪️ butterscotch sauce ▪️ pecan ice cream

The doughnuts are Earth’s signature, if you get one dessert these should be it. They look simple when in fact are a holy grail discovery of sarsaparilla glazed brioche. (We took one to-go and ate it the next afternoon. Glad we did this!) The apple pudding was a bonus birthday dessert.

Earth at Hidden Pond serves dinner Thursday — Monday, 5-9 pm. Make a reservation here.

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