Travel Guide: Squam Lake, New Hampshire
We're in the glorious small town of Holderness. Go Jump In The Lake!
Greetings friends!
Every summer we take a multi-family week long trip to Squam Lake in Holderness, New Hampshire.
As someone who is prone to nostalgia, I’d like to think I’m getting better at balancing the practical versus whimsical elements of a trip!!1 Your support means everything.
Before we get into housing, boating, and family logistics, I’m going to start with our groups favorite hike.
Everyone wants to know: where are these V I E W S?!
West Rattlesnake — a terrific family hike with unprecedented beauty over Big Squam Lake. Elevation gain is moderate up a gentle sloping 1,260 foot mountain and the light filled trail is wide and well maintained. Collectively our groups kids hiked this starting at age three (needing an assist at times). Age four to five: you’re golden!
This year at age two point five Ryder rode up in the Osprey Poco (the best). He then hiked (ran and jumped!) a good part of the descent.
Trailhead: Type in West Rattlesnake Mountain and make sure you are driving to / staying in Holderness. (There is an East, as well as a West trail in a different town). This is a quick jaunt from Holderness Center down the windy lakeside Route 113. We typically drive over with 3 families (3 cars) and have never had an issue with parking.
Make sure your children don’t get too near the cliff edge of the summit rock formations. There is a ton of flat space to spread out — avoiding anywhere near the drop off is very do-able. Enjoy the best views and bring snacks!
Footwear: Anything from sneakers to a thick velcro strap sandal will work. Hiking boots are not necessary but I might wear mine if I have them. The grippy, waterproof KEEN Seacamp are my favorite kids shoe for all things summer.
LOGISTICS. Trip Logic, if you will. We’re in the New Hampshire Lakes Region which is just south of the White Mountains Region.
SQUAM LAKE is actually two lakes connected by a no wake channel. Little Squam is, well, little! It is calm. It is serene. It is ideal for restorative morning paddle boarding. It begs for golden hour and sunset cruises. Big Squam is a sprawling lake with amazingly crisp and clear water. On the open waters of Big Squam there can be bigger waves, a little wind, and rocky shoals. There are blueberry bush filled island paths and shallow, sun-drenched coves. It reveals incredible mountain scenery and is not at all crowded. In fact on most weekdays you’ll feel like one of only a few boats out on the water.
Squam Lake is spread over four New Hampshire towns — Holderness is our spot. As a girlfriend collective we have been visiting every summer since college: Party barges and BC (before children) means this small lake town holds a special place for all of us!
ACCOMODATIONS.
Kiowa Lake Front House and Cabin — We’ve spent three years, two consecutive, at this property. It is a beloved space where flaws are outweighed by a familiar embrace.
This is a nice 4 bedroom home, but it is not a fully updated / renovated home. Kitchen appliances and bathrooms are not in peak shape. There are dated window ACs, there are fans working hard.2
The rustic two bedroom cabin is surrounded by the properties natural beauty. We like the space as it allows families to spread out. Sweeping water through the tree views promptly induce tranquility. It’s a yes to relaxed rusticity, a no to luxury.3
Location!! You are right there. Direct dock access to sparkling, calm Little Squam waters. The dock area is shallow — perfect for little swimmers, but the drop off is quick — ideal and safe for dock jumping.
A short walk through the property loops behind the marina4 to Squam Lake Marketplace and Walters Basin. The ease with which you can access Holderness Center on foot is a bonus.
Kiowa does not provide linens or towels. Factor these extra steps in for packing, for car space, for making beds, for lots of laundry when you return home. You need sheets, bath towels, hand towels, and boat towels.
The house does not have a trash service therefor you are required to make dump runs. (Hint: don’t leave this all until check out day). No one wants to go ta-da-dump on vacation, oof!5
Lots of woodsy outdoor space. A large, uneven firepit area with Adirondack seating. An excellent screened in porch. A washer/dryer.
Kiowa is like a loyal, loving, lazy boyfriend. He’s handsome, rugged and comes with a little baggage. He doesn’t want to work on his annoyances and quirks. You can deal with this for a few years. Your relationship will bittersweetly dissolve when the time is right.
ADDITIONAL PROPERTIES
Ice House — Same owner as Kiowa but this home boasts gorgeous renovations! It is across the main road from a shared Little Squam lakefront beach, right next to an ice cream shop. I have spent time (but not stayed) here as a portion of our group rented it one year.
Vinga Court — Vinga Court is a cluster of contemporary homes on Big Squam, close to the channel for easy access to Little.
The Boulders — Not staying for the entire week? Grab a cabin for a couple nights on VRBO. Another Little Squam Lakefront property win.
Squam Lakes Association Island Camping — Out of nowhere with the camping. Rent canoes from SLA and paddle to a secluded Moon Island with only three large campsites. There’s hiking trails and sprawling beachy coves. I recommend such an adventure if you’re the okay with sleeping in a tent, pooping in an outhouse, and not showering for a couple days.6
Squam Lake Inn — Couples with no kids who seek quiet luxury — I see you! While I’ve never stayed at the award winning inn, I can attest to the excellent food and beverage, warm staff, and intimate setting. Truly a small town New Hampshire hidden gem!
Now that you’re settled in with accommodations — if you want to spend proper time on the lake, look into a boat rental and float purchases.
BOAT: You need a Captain!! A member of your party needs a NH Boating license. We rent a Pontoon Boat from Holderness Harbor.7 Load up your Yeti Backflips with beers and boat sandwiches, and pack nothing short of 100 individual snack bags for your kids. We tend to have leisurely mornings and by lunchtime or mid afternoon we head out to explore.
FLOAT: We’ve had a Z Ray Inflatable Paddleboard for probably 9 years now!? It travels well and has held up remarkably. So has the boys beloved popsicle float. This year our friends had these and a couple of these. Whether you’re lounging around dockside or you toss them in the pontoon and cruise off to a remote cove, nothing beats High Noon floating / Cutwater Frozen Popsicle-ing on the sparkly lake waters while your children wreak havoc on this.
Finally, your kids need life jackets. These are the best ones.
GOODIES
Squam Lake Marketplace is an exceptionally well curated, modern day general store with made to order sandwiches (Turkey Reuben Panini pls), coffee/espresso, beer, wine, provisions, Squam gear, s’mores stuff. There are delights packed on every shelf.
Walter’s Basin is the lakefront casual bar and restaurant. Accessible by water with space to dock your boat / kayak / canoe.
Squam Lakes Science Center. Never been. Saving it for a rainy day. Though last year it rained a couple days and we still didn’t visit. I hear excellent things.
Polar Caves. Kids love it. 20 minutes from SQM in the town of Rumney.
Santa’s Village. A 1 hour 10 minute drive north from SQM through the White Mountains + Franconia Notch up to Jefferson, NH. I’m very much a “Santa is reserved for Christmas time” and “I don’t need a theme park event” person but I am a changed Mom after this experience. This is not in your face Santa/Christmas time, this is a pristine, well maintained, delightful, tree filled theme park.
How to excel at the group trip with multiple families:
each family picks a night to grill / cook dinner. This includes the kids meal (mac n cheese, pasta w butter, chicken nuggets) prior to the adult meal.8
on the last night: leftovers / raid the fridge / free for all.
a loose plan for Dads night out / Moms night out. These are separate events. Drinks at Walter’s or if we are on our reservation game dinner at Squam Lake Inn.
A wind down / post boat / craft based activity for the kids — giant coloring books + the perfect markers.
GROUP PARENTING. It’s a yes for us.
All of the packing, food shopping, planning: worth it. It takes a lot to make it work but, you got this.
Please share yours in the comments!!
I love what silly, creative mischief the kids all get up to. Oh and then, you want to be laaiiid back, alll good here, but you also want to competently parent? Suddenly your kids are acting out, emotional, not listening, refusing bedtime, but now it is in front of 4 other families?!? Oh no!! Not me yelling!! Not you seeing the inner workings of my family unit up close and personal!
The closeness of friends means letting stuff go easily, resolving conflict swiftly, and no judgement naturally. Swimming right along! Plus, the more you do it, the easier it gets. We fall right back into a nice little routine each year.
Most importantly. You and your children’s mind, body, soul need more: nature, connection, sunshine, exercise. Water is healing. Swimming is freeing. Hiking is accomplished movement. Friends are connection. Letting go and doing it all for an entire week is exactly what you need. Squam Lake is sacred to us. Take the group trip wherever is meaningful to you.
if I have reached you in the past with whims of lovingly shared inspirations and you had like a million questions, this is for you. The more I help families plan trips / pick Airbnbs etc, the acute details are what everyone venturing somewhere new wants.
bedrooms cooled by fans work well at a lakefront property but this years week began HOT + HUMID. Past years have lent crisp mornings and cool nights, which I am partial to but at the same time, love a good heat wave week with a large body of water to sustain you.
kiowa cabin would be chefs kiss if the owners upgraded or even put a couple finishing touches on the kitchen. that rusty refrigerator that dampens the whole vibe.
ease of boat rental as well. park at the house and walk next door to get the pontoon.
actual location of Holderness Transfer Station is 65 Ta Da Dump Road. I laugh every time.
but one of my favorite things about lake life is skipping showers.
i don’t know who needs to hear this but no kids are eating my requested entire head of dill potato salad / grilled broccoli. So where some kids will eat some adult foods, we still do the kids meal thing to satisfy all at once.
The photos tell the story perfectly ☺️
I love these detailed travel guides! I still have fond memories of multi-family vacations on the Connecticut shoreline. Your kids are going to cherish these memories for a lifetime!